Day 35 - Mule Deer Campsite to Princeton

We woke up to a chilly morning. We were at 1100m and though the sun was shining the air was very dry. It was cold in the shade. We were on the road with numb fingers before 8 am and sped merrily downwards towards Princeton then up and more up. Eventually 7 km of up to Sunday Summit at an elevation only 60m lower than Allison Pass; a climb of over 400m.


It was here that I realized that my altimeter was not working and I am afraid that we will no longer bring you “climbage” data.

After the initial fast descent we undulated down the left side of the valley beside an increasingly bigger Pasayten River. Some undulations brought us down to 5 km per hour and all thoughts of a quick passage to lunch faded into grinding of gears. A funny creaking noise was coming from somewhere at the rear of the bike when we are in bottom gear. (No doubters, this is not any part of either of the intrepid biker’s anatomy crying out for mercy.)


Cutting a long bike ride story short, we arrived famished and sweaty. The day having now turned too hot to be outside without 30+ sun lotion. We found lunch and decided on a Motel in town as tonight’s prediction is 3 degrees (Princeton is at 700m). We laundered everything possible, shopped for food and a bottom bracket tool (For the creak). While Marge did magic for supper, Ron busily tightened all screws, bolts, couplings and anything else that might be the cause of the creak. We shall see.

Pictures

17.6 kph average

Distance: 60km
Total Distance: 2472km
Alt change: 800m
Total Alt change: 14849m

Day 34 - Hope to Manning Park (Mule Deer Camp Site)

Our petrol stove has been acting up, burning very yellow and difficult to start and so I am thinking of dumping it and getting a gas stove. To make matters worse it ran out of fuel this morning during breakfast, fortunately we were nearly done so no great shakes. Then I remembered why we brought that particular stove with us- We went over the road to the gas station and filled ‘er up for 60 cents.

We did our usual morning chats with neighbors and other cyclists. The Kettle Valley Railway experience seems to be top of the list of just finished routes. Everyone looked suitably tired.

Once on the road, the morning was perfect. Up route 3 and passed Hope Slide the traffic was light and the shoulder was wide. The grade pretty soon developed into a bottom gear grind which continued for the next 750m climbed. Oh what fun we had! The hill then flattened and slowly we entered Sunshine Valley with a long descent (!) but what the heck all miles are good miles. We stopped for lunch at Sumallo Grove Picnic area, which comes highly recommended as a lunch stop, because it is some way off the highway among some 500 year old fir trees.


In a fit of bravado I asked a couple of German ladies if they had any spare water. Bless their hearts, they gave us a litre bottle for which we were most grateful. Tea was brewed and the stove burned blue and happily, all is forgiven. (I think that the last time I’d filled up it must have been with 2 stroke mix which accounts for the layer of soot on our new Titanium pans. Sorry Alex and Gen’.)

The rest of the ride fades in the memory as it was rather difficult for us old folks. We ran out of water in our bottles and took some from a stream which we then treated so no real hardship and we needed the rest while the chemicals did their thing. We conquered the pass about 4:00pm took the photos and cruised down to supper at the Manning Resort. We decided that, as it was all downhill to Mule Deer Campground, I would treat Marge to a night out. We arrived, set up and went comatose in record time having selected a site near the toilets. We appreciate these little things much more now than we used to.

The first big pass conquered, I now feel a great deal of admiration for the tenacity of my two lads that did this when they were 10 and 12 years old.


Pictures

12.7kph average

Distance: 80km
Total Distance: 2412km
Alt change: 1540m
Total Alt change: 14049m

Day 33 - Abbotsford to Hope

Up late this morning and took the breakfast in the hotel while doing the blog. So we are now a day ahead of schedule; Marge has suggested we use it as a sick day one day when the tennis is on TV.

We started out riding alongside the TCH on a service road which finally broke off and took us into rural Frazer Valley. There are no hills here, and the wind was behind us so we made good time to our first, “Where do we go now stop?” We were standing looking lost and a guy stopped his van, and said pointing to our bike, “We have one of those,” and asked us if we would like help. He patiently explained a very nice route he took on his tandem up to a Pub in Chilliwack and told us he was off to Ireland for a tour with his tandem shortly.


Strengthened by the knowledge that there was a pub in a few km we sped off into the east only to run out of steam just outside a Tim H’s. Pub grub forgotten, we made do with soup and a sandwich.

The day warmed nicely, as our new route wended its way alongside the mountain, then turned north to route 9 where we met Doug and Pam. Doug was waiting for his wife who was cycling a similar route to ours. Cut a long story short, Pam said a very nice prayer for us before we left. Only a kilometer or two down the road we were thankful for it as we crossed the very narrow Frazer River bridge in heavy but well behaved traffic. Marge and I did a collective “Phew” when the road opened up and gave us the hard shoulder back. Once on Hwy 7 there was little traffic to worry us as we ate up the final miles to Hope. The campsite was where we expected it to be, and within no time we were set up and shopping for supper.


So that’s it for today. On a scale of 1-10, a positive 10 I would say. Let’s do all again tomorrow when we have the first of the serious climbs up to Allison Pass; about 1400m or so. Night Night.

Pictures

23.3kph average

Distance: 91km
Total Distance: 2332km
Alt change: 230m
Total Alt change: 12509m

Day 32 - Victoria to Abbotsford

Up early to a beautiful day and muffled noises of preparation from 14 riders, who were on their first day of cross Canada riding. (These are part of a diverse group of people who are making the trip with a baggage van, we have talked of before.) Preparations were made, photos taken, questions asked and answered, and the first push of the pedals.

We meandered through a deserted Victoria Saturday morning and headed south and up the gentle grade to the Mile Zero Marker. We exited town on the blue river bridge shown at the top of yesterday’s blog, and got onto the Goose Cap Bike trail heading north to Swartz Bay Ferry. We stopped for second breakfast at McD’s opposite the Waddling Dog, and then back on the Trail, we were in the Ferry Terminal just after 11am.


We had to wait for an hour for the next ferry so spent the time eating and basking. Such a Pain! When the ferry arrived we rushed onto it with a 100 or so others, only to find that we had boarded the wrong one and just made it off before they closed the doors. The correct ferry was then boarded and we enjoyed a good trip across the sound to Tsawwassan.


As the weather was so good we decided to miss out the planned camp site and go on a little further, and so for the next 80km we were looking for another one! The route along Avenue 0 is very rural, and involves a 160m climb at the start, but after that, it rolls gently down almost into Abbotsford. The route is the actual border which is marked by the occasional post. In Abbotsford, we went into Tim H’s and had a long chat with a guy who had exact, and detailed information on the campsite we were looking for except for one teenie little piece- it no longer existed. This caused us to back track about 4km and find a Super 8, across the road from which there was another Tim H’s. We bought 2 large hot chocolates, took them back to our room, where we diluted said them with the last of our medicinal rum.

Shower and lights out at 9pm. A very memorable day.



Pictures

19.5kph average

Distance: 132km
Total Distance: 2241km
Alt change: 560m
Total Alt change: 12279m

Day 31 - Rest Day in Victoria

Sorry folks not much happened today, the sun shone, we walked round this lovely town and the saw the sights. We are really practicing the art of “the chat” and the long coffee break. We spend lots of time talking to people like us, ie retired, who have absolutely nothing better to do but sit in the sun and relax. Actually it is very rewarding.


We are both looking forward to tomorrow and the first leg of our journey home. Our route is planned and it will take us off Island to a place that is unpronounceable unless you live here. It has far too many W’s and S’s- Tsawwassen. So till tomorrow au revoir. To Martin: Sorry we missed you, but fear not-we’ll be back!

Day 30 - Victoria Airport to Victoria HI

Got up real early, suffering jet lag and pokes in the ribs from she who makes the rules to have me brew some tea. That task accomplished the rest of the morning’s activities went by smoothly and with the ingestion of a copious number of calories. We fetched the bike from the beer and wine store and thanked the nice lady who had helped us last night, loaded him* up and got on our way. The legs were heavy, and the 6 km to Butchart Gardens were not easy.


We anted up the $28 per head with some trepidation, but once in, the flowers and the setting are quite breathtaking. We meandered round the Garden in the sunshine for nearly 3 hours, and then aimed to take the Lochside Path into Victoria. With a comedy of errors we finally made it onto said path and into Town where Marge found the Hostel post haste.


We have become accustomed to the folks in hostels helping us get our stuff organized, and this hostel is no exception. Tea was brewed, shopping done for two days food and we sat down to chat. We found a girl in the hostel from St Bruno, on her way to Seattle, and a couple touring the island from Gatineau. We meant to do a lot round town seeing sights etc, but were to tired; the Gardens and the ride in made us somewhat slothful. I spent the early evening blogging and emailing, and drinking tea, while Marge organized the washing.

*Footnote: Our tandems with one exception have all been named after generals this one is called Romeo after the Canadian General Romeo Dallaire.

Pictures
Pictures 2

17kph average

Distance: 65km
Total Distance: 2132km
Alt change: 12m
Total Alt change: 11458m

Day 29 - Flight to Victoria

We finished off the packing about 6:30am and sat patiently waiting for the taxi to arrive at 9:30 am to take us to the airport. Marge likes to be ready early, and this leaves us a lot longer to worry. We sat on the front steps of the hostel and chatted to a couple of guys we had met on the ferry who were touring on motor cycles. One of the bikes was a custom built Harley called a Jackpot Custom, and after the special paint it cost around $50 thousand dollars. It was, of course all tricked out except for a muffler and so very loud.

The taxi van arrived early and for a minute, or two, was concerned that we could not get the bike in, but with some arrangement of seat backs, we managed to get everything in and off we set. For once everything went swimmingly at the airport check-in. The Air Canada Staff were cheerful and once they understood what we wanted to do were very helpful indeed. Likewise the security guys who initially wanted us to unpack the bike, but negotiation and common sense prevailed, security was satisfied, and the box re-taped with little delay. Thanks to all.


The flights were just boring, and that is also just great. We of course got chatting to lots of folks, which made the time go quickly, and at 19:00h local time we landed in Victoria. The bike was among the first things off and we were pleased that it seemed to be in good order. We assembled the bike in a bike assembly point in the grounds of the airport which was furnished with a pump and bike work stands and in about an hour we were on our way to the Waddling Dog Quality Inn. After a little discussion the bike was housed in the beer and wine stores, while we went into a rather swish accommodation. Well worth the little extra. The Pub Grub is also highly recommended.


The highlight of my day, apart from the safe arrival, was that we finished the jam we had lugged for 2000 km in our oats in SJ so I don’t have to pedal it over the Rockies.

Pictures

23kph average

Distance: 7km
Total Distance: 2074km
Alt change: 12m
Total Alt change: 11458m

NOTE: Does not include plane and taxi.

Day 28 - Rest Day

Rest day 2 - St John’s

We ate a good breakfast where we were introduced to Toutons, then took a walk to Bill’s cycle shop where we picked up 2 bike boxes. Unfortunately, we had a long walk back to the Hostel in torrential rain where we got the boxes wet, (surprise). We then stripped the bike for transport, lazed around, wrote the blog, drank tea and waited for the boxes to dry enough so that the box tape would stick. (Who says men are not multi-taskers?) So that’s it for today.

In deference to the Editor, I have deliberately used fewer subordinate clauses and reduced the number of commas. Thanks for that input.

Hurrah! - Ed

Tomorrow it is the flight to Victoria so those with maps of our progress will have to go all the way to the left side to see where we are. In summary, we have ridden longer, further, higher and better than any trip before to get here. We’ve been lucky for the most part with the wind and weather; the traffic has been light and good natured. Best driver award goes to Province of New Brunswick so far. Most importantly, we’ve met many nice people, and found out we were loved a lot by those we left behind. Special thanks go to Emily, who took time off work to gently shepherd us and welcome us to St John’s and is an excellent companion. The Skype event was very special thanks to all involved.



Pictures

Day 27 - Rest Day

Day 1 in St John’s:

Beers: 6
Screech: 2
Fish and Chips: 5
Toutons: 6
Wet legs: 6
Whales: 2 (maybe)
Puffins and assorted other birds: 2493216

Pretty painted houses, 100’s, funny road intersections many, greater than 20% hills-who can count?


Emily is a gentle slave driver and word has it she follows her mother in this regard. She shepherded us to Shea Heights, where Ron made a joke about someone coming up to him with an offer to sell him the site, and his response faithfully recorded here- “I don’t take Shea Height from anyone". When he’d recovered, the intrepid party visited Bay Bulls, where they bought tickets to take a trip to see puffins et al. Unfortunately, the fog was very thick, so to spot these porcine shaped flappers was somewhat more difficult, than it was for the birds to spot us and we were warned to keep our mouths closed at all times. We got some good shots of fog, no one was sea sick and so we counted that as money well spent.


Back on land, it was lunch time. We all had gourmet burgers. In Bay Bulls, this means a whole wheat bun, a well cooked patty, and a Dill pickle. It was, however, delicious. Some more gentle shepherding was done, Emily making sure that we were not over taxed, and we were at Cape Spear, the most easterly point in North America. There was close up photography of rocks and plants, as we basked in the soft light of the fog. Then, as we approached the old WW2 shore defense battery, the fog cleared and beauty surrounded us. One more magical experience.


Emily drove us back through heavy rush hour traffic to Ches’s where we sampled some superb fish and chips, then it was time for Skype. Skype was an audio visual event with the three of us sat with Em’s laptop in the back of her Mazda connected with good friends at home. (I love technology which enables me to see new angles on our garden from 2000km away but don’t ask why we had to do it in the back of her car.) Thoroughly drained from laughing too much, we thought our day was ended, but no! It was back to George St where we were anointed the 95002 and 95003 honorary Newfoundlanders at Trapper John’s Pub. A couple of beers at Greensleeves Pub finished the night with a very good singer guitarist playing all the songs we knew.

Pictures

Day 26 - Junction of TCH and Route 100 to St John's

We breakfasted in the room on muesli and jam sandwiches then made our way over the diner for a cup of coffee with Lads which Neil generously paid for. The sky was lightly overcast, and the wind came unhelpfully but without much conviction from the south. We stayed on to chat with Clare and Robert then made our way slowly toward St J’s. We caught up with three of the lads quite quickly, but Neil was way ahead until their compulsory 10km stop.

We finally set off on our own and caught up with Tristan (one of the lads from Quebec) who was looking a little tired. We gave him a banana and some trail mix and lead him into the wind for some time, until he caught up with his friend. Enjoyment of the peace and tranquility of the countryside however was short lived as the traffic built up to a steady stream and it became too noisy to communicate.

We took exit 42 into town and made a few peregrinations, but finally found the mile zero marker, took a picture and found the Hostel, which is excellent. We made arrangement with the guys for a celebration as Bob has finally finished his crossing, he had taken six bites at it, but now it was done! We are walking to George Street.


17kph average

Distance: 89km
Total Distance: 2067km
Alt change: 904m
Total Alt change: 11446m

Day 25 - Argentia Terminal to TCH/Route 100 Junction

We had a good night with no ship wrecks, men, or women over board, in fact nothing to laugh at at all. We ate too much, drank too much bad coffee, and looked out on a smooth sea in bright sunshine for the duration of the crossing. We chatted to lots of folks and developed our friendship with the other cyclists. There are a fun bunch of retired guys Ken, Bob, Len and Neil that get together once per year and cycle somewhere. They were very helpful with advice on how to get into Winnipeg, and offered us accommodation while we’re there. We also spent time trying to improve our French with Clare and Robert, our tandem twins, and Tristan and Magellan, young lads for Quebec City. It was decided that due to the lateness of the of disembarkation, we would shorten our day and aim for a motel: the Moorland at the junction of the TCH and route 100.


On leaving the terminal, the road meanders along for a couple of kilometers then sharply turns up at 13%. Typical, the front changer decided to act up, and we could not get into our groveling granny gear. The pain was soon over though and what doesn’t kill you makes you wish you’d cleaned the bike properly after the deluge in PEI.

At the top there was an Information Centre, and I popped in for a comfort stop. On leaving, this cute lady “of a certain age” chirped, “Could I have helped you?” Well before I could stop myself, I said that I done it many times and knew just what to do thanks.

Such accommodating folk. The scenery was nicely varied as we past the end of a small fjord, then climbed gently onto the Rock. The wind was generous once again, and blew us along nicely and we were soon at the Motel. We all joined up for supper at the local diner which was nothing to write home about. In bed for 10pm. Sweet dreams……


Pictures

20kph average

Distance: 46km
Total Distance: 1978km
Alt change: 377m
Total Alt change: 10542m

Day 24 - Whycocomagh to North Sydney Ferry

First night camping where at least one of us was too warm! The forecast was for a warm day again today so we were up early and making tea to the song of the early morning bird chorus. On the road to perfect riding by 7:30am and up a 100m climb to get the blood flowing. We took our time and traveled easy, arriving at the Tim Hortons in Baddeck before 9:30. The road had a good hard shoulder for the most part, but it got very narrow where they had widened the road to provide a passing lane on our side. No real issues though. There were lots of rolling hills and beautiful landscapes of Cape Breton and Bras d’Or lakes. We cleaned the 240m Kelly’s Mountain and ate cheese and onion sandwiches at St Anne’s lookout with the Englishtown ferry below us


We were privileged to view an aerial battle between four crows and two falcons. The crows were attacking from behind and high and flying very fast, the falcons were nonchalantly, it seemed, twisting and turning, then just at the last moment would barrel roll and present the oncoming crow with talons. No blood was spilled on this occasion and the falcons took the hint and left the area.

We chatted to a couple of guys from Wisconsin, then, started down the 4km downhill to the narrow bridge at the bottom. This would have been a good photo op, but frankly we were too interested in getting off the bridge. I stayed in the middle of the lane to avoid cars trying to overtake us, but no one did and we got to the other side unscathed. After that, it was just a case of completing the last 30 km to the ferry. We had nice rolling country and we had a generous breeze at our back.

We got to the ferry before 2pm, parked the bike and went for Chinese at the local shop on Main St. Very good it was too. The terminal has Wi-Fi so we sorted email, blog and stuff, chatted to a guy from Perth Australia on a European and Atlantic Province tour; these folks are definitely different from us, they are really comfortable with themselves and need no one.


Just after 7pm, a group of cyclists started to gather, we met up with the tandem pair from Quebec, a group of 4 guys from Winnipeg, and a guy from Calgary, who had delivered a car to a friend in Pictou, and had cycled the 293 km to the ferry in one day. His name is Garth. (Does anyone remember the Daily Mirror comic strip with the same name?) The night became very entertaining as stories and reminiscences were swapped until we boarded the ferry around midnight. We immediately went to our cabin and showered and were asleep in no time. This crossing has to be a record for there was hardly a ripple on the sea….


Sorry folks, I can’t think of anything funny that has happened today, except an email from Mike F, however, this day was another interesting and enjoyable experience.

Pictures

19.5kph average

Distance: 95km
Total Distance: 1932km
Alt change: 839m
Total Alt change: 10165m

New Photos

Incoming message from Andrew...

Tim has given me new photos that he took while he was riding with mum and dad.


Check 'em out.

End communication..

Day 23 - Antigonish to Whycocomagh

We had the best night’s camping of the trip so far; it was warm, and quiet, and the loos were a few meters away. Ron got up early, as we had slept so well. Marge needed a cup of tea to get her going, and I had no problem with that. There had been a short shower during the night, so when we got on the road at 7:30 am the asphalt was still damp. But, the day soon warmed and we were steaming along the TCH 104 without too many worries, occasionally the paved shoulder would run out for a couple of hundred meters, but it seemed that during those times there was no traffic to worry about. All the trucks were very biker aware and gave us lots of room, or waited patiently for us to get out of the way.


High point of the day was spotting a very large Eagle , white head, fan white tail. Unfortunately we could not photograph it. Low point was a beautiful red deer dead in the ditch.

We stopped at 30km for a short break then it was up and down all the way to Canso Causeway Tourist Office, where we were told the route we had chosen to take through St Peters using 104 had lots of road-works and the shoulder was in poor shape. We were strongly recommended to use the TCH (Trans Canada Highway.) instead.


We met up with Jean Francois (the young man we had met near Marshville) again and said au revoir as he was off to Louisburg, while we snacked and then made our way east on the TCH. We suffered absolutely fabulous weather, 28C, and a strong tail breeze, blue, blue skies and clear visibility. It got tiring as the miles piled, due in part to the heat, the hills and our first hot day of the summer. But all good things come to an end, by 2:30 we were where we wanted to be: sitting in the shade drinking cold chocolate milk. Then, we went over the road to a new super market which was just being set up, workmen and shelf stuffers everywhere: Chaos. 200m to a campsite, cup of tea, carton of Pringles, up with the tent, shower, wash clothes, make supper, -tonight Steak, mushrooms, mashed potatoes, peas, fruit and of course tea. (Did I mention a tot of Captain Morgans? )


18.9kph average

Distance: 102km
Total Distance: 1837km
Alt change: 809m
Total Alt change: 9326m

Pictures

Day 22 - YMCA Camp at Big Bay Cove to Antigonish

After a cool night, which was “just” uncomfortable (we never learn to dress properly for bed) we breakfasted on muesli and tea, then packed and made our way up the dirt track to the 104. Today it was nowhere near as threatening and we really enjoyed the vistas and the sounds of birds: loons, woodpeckers, and many more. We did a few kilometers on the 104, then turned off on to the old road, route 4. This turned out to be quite tough and energy sapping. We stopped after about an hour and made excellent cheese sandwiches. With 25 km to go we were forced back onto the 104, where the road went through a pass, and the good news was there was construction of the other carriageway which allowed us sole possession of our side of the highway for long periods. It was onwards and upwards, then (bliss) downwards into Antigonish.

We checked if there was a campsite up the road another 20 km, but effectively there were none so we opted to have a short day, and stay in Antigonish, at Whidden’s in the middle of the town. We shopped and fed in the warm breeze.

About 3:30pm another couple on a blue tandem, complete with Bob trailer and front and rear bags, arrived. They had been a couple of days behind us and we had heard of them through the grapevine en route. Their plan is to do a similar ride to us, ie ride to St John’s then fly, in their case to Vancouver, and ride the T-Can Back to Quebec City. A little later, up rolls the young man from yesterday. We have quite a cyclist convention. Last, but not least of today’s fine surprises, I ran out of fuel for my stove and got a free refill from the site gardener. Magic. It will be spaghetti a la Trumper for supper, with juicy California Cherries for dessert.

18.5 kph average

Distance: 54km
Total Distance: 1735km
Alt change: 581m
Total Alt change: 8517m

Pictures

Day 21 - Marshville to French River YMCA Camp

We packed up the bike and had a fine farewell lunch with Joan and Meredith. Joan had been running around all morning trying to fix a problem with the new windows at the other house, so we felt very humble to have such a good dinner before we left. But leave we did in bright sunshine and retraced our wheel tracks from Pictou.

We met another tourist. He had come in from Quebec City and had taken the train to Moncton. It was his third day. He retired to a campsite after a few kilometers, and I’m sure we will see him again. The ride along the causeway was not as traumatic as we anticipated as the little traffic there was, was considerate and gave us plenty of room. Also, for the most part there was a wide shoulder.


We stayed on the 104 Trans Canada Highway for the next 25 or so km, then turned off just before French River to our “campsite.” The track descended and got rougher and twisted and turned passed some beautiful waterscapes. We finally arrived at a summer camp, but after chatting with the staff, they kindly allowed us to set up our tent and even offered us the use of a cabin. It was good to hear the kids having so much fun.

A light supper of ham and mashed potatoes, followed by biscuit au chocolat, and a mug of tea. Into bed and listened to some Chris de Burgh and, dare I say it, Willie Nelson.


18.7 kph average

Distance: 71km
Total Distance: 1681km
Alt change: 562m
Total Alt change: 7936m

Pictures

Days 19 & 20 - Rest Days

We got up at 8:30 am with a tray of morning tea delivered by Joan. Then we went in for a leisurely breakfast. We lazed around enjoying J &E’s company all day till we were organized to take a little walk alongside the estuary at Tatamagouche. Enjoyed the New Nelson Park, and took in a Quay that had been built in a week by the guys for the tv show “The week the Women went.”

J &E are very busy with the restoring of a cottage and wish to sell their house down by the water. I've attached some pictures and can attest it is both a picturesque setting and a lovely house, 9km east of Tatamagouche. Yesterday we spent some time with Meredith’s carers, Janice and Darleene, two ladies with hearts of gold. They come in as respite for Joan.


The weather has been wonderful, and we are fully recovered thanks to the quality, and quantity, of excellent food, wine and hospitality. We have decided to leave tomorrow, at lunch time and go to French River 15km to east of New Glasgow. This will ease the mileage for the days to North Sydney.



Pictures

Day 18 - Charlottetown to Marshville

Part 1 On PEI:

We went to bed early last night and missed the third period of the Stanley Cup Final. In truth, we also missed the first and the second as well chatting to an Aussie named Barry who was on his 10 year long service leave doing a whirlwind tour through Canada. They had started at Fairbanks and done everything in between.

When we had been in bed for some time two Japanese girls came into the room and started to have a chat which got quite loud and animated. I was waiting for Marge to say something, but she didn’t. I slept well apart from being woken by Marge’s loud and continuous snoring. I was about to waken her in consideration of the other folks in the dorm, then I realized that there was only me and the Japanese girls. I slipped off to sleep again as the two girls tossed and turned. I guess what comes around goes around.

This morning, we took our time packing and then went in search of some chain lube as the deluge yesterday had washed the Teflon off. At the same time I hoped to buy a HR monitor and altimeter, but though I was lucky with the lube, we were unsuccessful otherwise.

Once across the Hillsborough Bridge, we made really good time on the gently rolling road with following wind. Very rural countryside spun out before us and it was not long before we stopped at Cherry Valley for a cup of coffee.

We arrived at the ferry at 1:40pm, 10mins after it had departed and the next one was 5pm. All was not lost, we bought a pair of fish and chip platters, the fish is to die for, which we sat quietly and ravenously devoured.

Part 2 In Nova Scotia:


The trip across the Northumberland Straight took 75mins, the sea was flat and the sun shone, making it a very pleasant experience. As we disembarked we saw Eddie, and after the hugs were exchanged, we got on with the plan of getting all our kit to Marshville 45km. We decided to ride the bike, and Eddie would take the trailer and panniers in the car. No wind, beautiful sunshine and a light bike. Eddie came us meet us on his bike with about 12 kms to go and we made it chez Joan and Eddie about 8:20pm ravenous. Lobster, salad, homemade bread, wine, Rhubarb pie, ice cream and tea. Stuffed. And so to bed just after mid night.


23kph average

Distance: 108km
Total Distance: 1598km
Alt change: 450m
Total Alt change: 7374m

Pictures

Day 17 - Carlton-Bordon (PEI) to Charlottetown

Because we only had 60 to do today we had a lazy start laying in bed drinking tea (Thanks Marge). We breakfasted in the cabin on muesli, packed and finally got started about 9:30.


We chose not to use the Rails to Trails because of the rain and our experience with the Petit Temis. Instead we devised a hybrid route starting on the Trans Canada and heading north east along the 1A, 225, 13 up to Hunter River then east on the 2. All I can say is PEI ain’t flat and we were reduced to the granny gear a couple of times. I counted 13 major downs and ups before we got to Hunter River in pouring rain, to have a snack at the Irving station, then, we had the best part of a kilometer on compact dirt through the road works on a 7% hill.



The rain just kept increasing and by the time we got to the outskirts of Charlottetown, roads were flooded and traffic tied up. We found the hostel by mistake and after dripping all over their new wooden floors, we got organized, showered and dried. We then went out for our tour of the capital. We weren’t too adventurous as the rain had only let up a little, but we did refuel in fine form at the Olde Dublin Pub. Tonight is the Cup Final everyone is running around making pies and other treats for the big game tonight when a local boy will be playing. We probably won’t last that long. Tomorrow it’s 50km to Woods Island Ferry and 2 days furlough with Joan and Eddy.



18.1kph average

Distance: 60km
Total Distance: 1490km
Alt change: 750m
Total Alt change: 6924m

Pictures

Day 16 - Bouctouche to Borden-Carlton (PEI)

After breakfast at the hotel we started off in light drizzle along route 134, eschewing the longer coast road due to the poor visibility and, frankly, to shorten the ride by a few km. We were snug and warm in our rain gear and I looked quite a toff in my bright yellow industrial gloves keeping my hands dry.

When we got to Cocagne a bridge was out which caused us a 5km detour along route 11.

Without much further ado, we arrived in Shediac and, after taking the obligatory pictures of the giant lobster, we had a great lunch in Magicos (Great chowder and caramel fudge cake). We chatted to a young RNFS guy from UK who was looking to buy a house. Apparently he was on ship for 4 months then had 3months off. Sounds like a good life.


Two policemen stopped three young boys outside the restaurant and had a “chat” with them for sometime before one Policeman came in to warn us to keep an eye out for our bikes. We said a tearful goodbye to T&D as they went off to Moncton to catch the bus.

The wind was not a factor in today’s ride, we just plodded on southwards through rural country. One thing we found strange was that this week must be the once a year pick up of large garbage. Things like stoves, fridges, ovens et cetera. It was common to see three or four different pieces piled neatly in line for the collector. One house must have had a complete makeover as their pile was ten plus meters long (sorry “Live Wire” we did not take a photo).

At 72km we stopped for a snack and met a couple of guys who dropped a donation in the JDRF fund. (Thanks to them and the other folks that have been so generous over the past weeks.) Then it was just a case of completing the distance to the ferry. Mr Numbers got his sums wrong (it has happened before) which meant we had a few more kms to do. At about 5pm we got to the Bridge and the system swung into action. A truck came to pick us up and a half hour later we were in PEI. Another slightly magical, and free, experience.




Into Subway for a couple of feet of sandwich to go and a pizza we bought last night then up the road to get ourselves ensconced in a snug, little cabin that we soon had at sauna temperature. Tomorrow it’s off to Charlottetown along the old railway and to buy a new Heart Rate monitor. According to my old one I have been dead for a couple of days. I thought the odor was that I hadn’t taken a shower after vigorous exercise…….



21.5kph average

Distance: 117km
Total Distance: 1430km
Alt change: 540m
Total Alt change: 6174m

Pictures

Day 15 - Rest Day

So here we sit with not much to do except watch TV, and eat. Mmmmmm.

So Marge suddenly bursts into song:

"Good morning Canada, How are yer.
Don’t you know us we are Marge and Ron.
Ohh, we are on the Tandem, riding cross this country,
And we’ll do a hundred klicks when the day is done.

Oh, we started off in Bruno Wednesday morning,
Good bye friends we’re on our way at last.
In rain we parted full of joy of freedom,
Someone else was going to cut our grass.

Oh the tires humming on the road, the trailer with its heavy load,
The horses in the paddock as we pass,
the people with their smiles and waves , The trucks are giving us safe space,
And the endless sense of pain in our ass.

Good morning Canada How are yer……"

So we thought, why not a little competition for our friends and readers to add verses. (It is, of course sung to Good Morning America, How are you, by, among others Willy Nelson.)

Shouldn't that be "Willie Nelson - City Of New Orleans?" - Ed

Ron and Marge will donate $20 to the JDRF for the best verse, as judged by Marge.

If we get a good response, we also thought, that Andrew could write a play about it, Sandra direct the play, Debbie would write a whole new tune and many more words, Peter Crookes would complain about the lack of invective and the difficulty of designing such a large set, Chris would want to play Marge, Susie, in view of the fact that there are no evil twins, would choreograph it and somehow bring in a Mambo. Tina would bring in a fruity headdress, Alwyn would proofread the script and add interesting and erudite comments. Davey would organize the pool party. Rob will want to play the drunk, and Betty will want the part on the front of the tandem. Elaine, of course would do the travel arrangements for the International Tour. Just a silly thought…….

Weather for tomorrow is some liquid sunshine, but whatever…..Marge pass the rum


Pictures

Day 14 - Baie St Anne to Bouctouche

The sun poured in through the tent and we were gently warmed. Just the birds, distant sound of the sea, and a breeze in the trees.

The usual pressure forced us out of bed and into the mosquitoes. There was much hilarity from the folks in the caravan adjacent to our site; I suppose they were laughing at our marionette dancing routine trying to defeat the buzzing hordes.

Packed up, we zipped east along the coast to Escuminac and breakfast. On the way we passed a church that had been converted to a boathouse. It was a sight that I felt mixed emotions about.


As we turned south the wind helped us and we made good speed until we hit a series of bumps in the road and the stoker chain came off. No big deal to fix, big deal to get the dirty oil off my hands, as I had put the hand cleaner right at the bottom of a pannier and had to be saved by Tim.

We passed through the Kouchibouguac National Park, where passed a funeral taking place at an old cemetery. It seems that people are no longer allowed to live there, but it’s ok still to be buried there.


At 82 km we stopped for lunch, where I stoked up on poutine, and Marge ate a delicious looking chicken wrap. As it turned out my poutine was more digestible.

We had a 5km diversion round Rexton because of bridge works, then several kilometers of head and side winds. It was getting late in the afternoon and fatigue was starting to set in, and we had some discussion about shortening the route by using the 11 to cut out St Eduard de Kent, but somehow we missed the turn and spent the next 16km fighting on-shore winds. The upside, it was the most picturesque section of the ride.


We finally made it to Bouctouche about 5:30pm and spent a lot of effort finding a motel. It appears one can eat as much as you want in Bouctouche, but you can’t stay there.

At last we found a superb Inn, Auberge Bouctouche Inn, got checked for two days, and then went out for supper; Fishermans Platter at last. In bed by 10pm. Thanks Live Wire once again for pointing out our mileage error for yesterday. It has been amended.
We have a day in the rain tomorrow, but for now………..let’s enjoy.

20.5kph average

Distance: 135km
Total Distance: 1313km
Alt change: 254m
Total Alt change: 5380m

Pictures